On this page I will put files and links that I have either created myself or have checked out. It is to save you searching for hours online for the best information and to save me hours re-inventing the wheel.
This is the final version of my finger strength research written with the esteemed Volker Schoeffl.
- FLEXOR/EXTENSOR STRENGTH. A research study.
This year (2017) I am looking into nutrition and how this applies to specific conditions. Things I find I will put here.
- NUTRITION FACTS: a great podcast by Michael Gregor. June 22 has information on joints and inflammatory conditions.
- HERE’S A THING. I am fairly convinced by this. Time will tell, watch this space.
- GUIDELINES FOR DIET. For physicians (is an American article)
- Information on GOUT here. Although its just Pinterest it has all you need to know
This is a set of articles I wrote for The Professional Mountaineer magazine (2015-2016) on how coaches can look after their climbers with some screening and testing information.
- Squad Screening – General Physical Benchmarking
- Squad Screening – Physiological measurements
- Squad Screening – Special Tests
As promised in the articles above here is a full screen for climbing coaches and a simple spreadsheet to help you organise things.
I’ve also done a screening programme for skiers if you’re interested.
I have read and assimilated Dave Macleod’s new-ish book and thought I would review it.
This is an investigation into injury screening young performance climbers. It looks at other sports and the literature to see what is considered best practice. Its a pseudo-literature review i.e. I have tried to make it readable.
Articles for 2014-2015 in The Professional Mountaineer magazine
- Self diagnosis – The Finger
- Self diagnosis – The Elbow
- Self diagnosis – The Shoulder
- Self diagnosis – The Knees
These are useful websites:
- Willowbrook Clinic – the lovliest, little injury clinic in Bristol.
- This Dave MacLeod’s blog site – very useful
- The site of my old clinic – The Clinic. Good for injury rehab exercises.
- The Chartered Society of Physiotherapy – the physio’s professional body
- Golfer’s Elbow a solution
- Anatomy site – the best free anatomical site. From Zurich university
- Frontline article by the Chartered Society discussing the climbing coaching scheme
- Climb magazine article from January 2014 where I discuss how and why I became a physio – CLICK THIS
The stuff below I have contributed myself. I am regularly researching things with the climbers at TCA and will report here.
- Danny’s undergrad primary study looking at the difference between climbers and non-climbers. A summary of the above – much easier to read
- Crush Test Results – an analysis of some data I collected at TCA
- Junior Crush Results – an analysis of the relatives strengths of the junior team
- Grip Vs weight centile chart – want to know how strong you are?
Articles I wrote for the AMI Magazine in 2011 – recently updated and tidied up
- Ankle Sprains
- How to bend your elbow
- How Do We Climb?
- Looking After Your Back
- Managing Injury in Performance Youths
More articles written by my good self. Unedited and unexpurgated.
- Climbing and Pregnancy – a fairly safe but useful look at pregnancy
- How to wear a harness – a look at thoracic pain in mountaineers