On this page I will put files and links that I have either created myself or have checked out. It is to save you searching for hours online for the best information and to save me hours re-inventing the wheel.

This is the final version of my finger strength research written with the esteemed Volker Schoeffl.

• FLEXOR/EXTENSOR STRENGTH. A research study.

Some information on nutrition and how this applies to specific conditions.

• NUTRITION FACTS: a great podcast by Michael Gregor. June 22 has information on joints and inflammatory conditions.
• HERE’S A THING. I am fairly convinced by this. Time will tell, watch this space.
• GUIDELINES FOR DIET. For physicians (is an American article)
• Information on GOUT here. Although its just Pinterest it has all you need to know

This is a set of articles I wrote for The Professional Mountaineer magazine (2015-2016) on how coaches can look after their climbers with some screening and testing information.

• Squad Screening – General Physical Benchmarking
• Squad Screening – Physiological measurements
• Squad Screening – Special Tests

As promised in the articles above here is a full screen for climbing coaches and a simple spreadsheet to help you organise things.

• Injury Screen for Climbing Coaches
• Spreadsheet for above

I’ve also done a screening programme for skiers if you’re interested.

• Injury Screen for Adolescent Skiers
• Spreadsheet for the above

I have read and assimilated Dave Macleod’s new-ish book and thought I would review it.

• Make or Break by Dave Macleod – a review

This is an investigation into injury screening young performance climbers. It looks at other sports and the literature to see what is considered best practice. Its a pseudo-literature review i.e. I have tried to make it readable.

• Injury and Performance Screening in Young Climbers

Articles for 2014-2015 in The Professional Mountaineer magazine

• Self diagnosis – The Finger
• Self diagnosis – The Elbow
• Self diagnosis – The Shoulder
• Self diagnosis – The Knees

These are useful websites:

• Willowbrook Clinic – the lovliest, little injury clinic in Bristol.
• This Dave MacLeod’s blog site – very useful
• The site of my old clinic – The Clinic. Good for injury rehab exercises.
• The Chartered Society of Physiotherapy – the physio’s professional body
• Golfer’s Elbow a solution
• Anatomy site – the best free anatomical site. From Zurich university
• Frontline article by the Chartered Society discussing the climbing coaching scheme
• Climb magazine article from January 2014 where I discuss how and why I became a physio – CLICK THIS

The stuff below I have contributed myself. I am regularly researching things with the climbers at TCA and will report here.

• Danny’s undergrad primary study looking at the difference between climbers and non-climbers. A summary of the above – much easier to read
• Crush Test Results – an analysis of some data I collected at TCA
• Junior Crush Results – an analysis of the relatives strengths of the junior team
• Grip Vs weight centile chart – want to know how strong you are?

Articles I wrote for the AMI Magazine in 2011 – recently updated and tidied up

• Ankle Sprains
• How to bend your elbow
• How Do We Climb?
• Looking After Your Back
• Managing Injury in Performance Youths

More articles written by my good self. Unedited and unexpurgated.

• Climbing and Pregnancy – a fairly safe but useful look at pregnancy
• How to wear a harness – a look at thoracic pain in mountaineers