Everything in moderation?

I hear this a lot. It’s normally near the end of a conversation about diet. And then I start to disagree. If I think about it, it doesn’t work. I drink moderately but the head of the health services in UK advises NO alcohol is the only safe limit. I certainly don’t eat everything moderately…

What is success?

I’m having a very productive week here in Chamonix attending the 4th IRCRA conference and despite being beaten in my attempt to climb the Dent Du Geant I’ve really enjoyed learning so much about current climbing research. There’s so much going on. A great week. And I climbed Cosmiques Arete – always meant to

Do you crimp?

I’m attending the 4th IRCRA (international rock climbing research association) Congress here in Chamonix. Learning lots of things about all aspects of climbing; interesting ideas on setting up stances for example. Today is all about the body – my favorite day. This slide shows the forces put through the A2 & A4 pulleys during a…

How to run an ultra-marathon Part deux

Practice your accents and descents. They are actively different so you need to spend some time working out the best way for you to track them. A few tips; Pacing is all on the way up. Get to a steady pace where your heart and lungs can maintain your legs. You should be breathing heavily…

The physical activity paradox

There is a thing called the physical activity paradox; doing physical activity outside of work prolongs your life but doing it in work curtails your life. It’s all to do with risky behavior patterns and perceptions of manual jobs. However, in my view doing this all day can only be a good thing. Well done…

Starting young

Fitness and exercise should be fun. Staying healthy should be fun. Eating well is fun proper food tastes nice. But all too often we associate good feelings with bad things and vica-versa such as “comfort food” or vegans. One thing which is well researched is young people’s attitude to sport. Especially girls. Many main stream…

It’s a tough job

Being the UK’s premier climbing coach/physio means every now and then (weekly) having to actually climb. Tough eh? Enjoying working 1:1 at BLOC with Tom looking at foot placement and planning. Lots learned, especially by me – not bad for a middling sort.