Do you crimp?

I’m attending the 4th IRCRA (international rock climbing research association) Congress here in Chamonix. Learning lots of things about all aspects of climbing; interesting ideas on setting up stances for example. Today is all about the body – my favorite day. This slide shows the forces put through the A2 & A4 pulleys during a…

How to run an ultra-marathon Part deux

Practice your accents and descents. They are actively different so you need to spend some time working out the best way for you to track them. A few tips; Pacing is all on the way up. Get to a steady pace where your heart and lungs can maintain your legs. You should be breathing heavily…

The physical activity paradox

There is a thing called the physical activity paradox; doing physical activity outside of work prolongs your life but doing it in work curtails your life. It’s all to do with risky behavior patterns and perceptions of manual jobs. However, in my view doing this all day can only be a good thing. Well done…

Starting young

Fitness and exercise should be fun. Staying healthy should be fun. Eating well is fun proper food tastes nice. But all too often we associate good feelings with bad things and vica-versa such as “comfort food” or vegans. One thing which is well researched is young people’s attitude to sport. Especially girls. Many main stream…

It’s a tough job

Being the UK’s premier climbing coach/physio means every now and then (weekly) having to actually climb. Tough eh? Enjoying working 1:1 at BLOC with Tom looking at foot placement and planning. Lots learned, especially by me – not bad for a middling sort.

How to run an ultra-marathon; part 1

A friend of mine had convinced me to run an ultra-marathon. My previous max distance is 15 miles so a degree of scepticism is understandable. But his argument went something like this; you’re not punching out tarmac miles so your knees last longer, you can always walk, it’s nicer. So I thought I’d start with…

Back pain: how to live with one of the world’s biggest health problems

My favourite quote, “The evidence [for effective back pain treatments] is strongest for therapist-delivered interventions such as the cognitive behavioural approach, based on the same principles as CBT, exercise treatment and physiotherapy“. Just sayin’ But another well considered article. Come see me. Back pain: how to live with one of the world’s biggest health problems…