Injury and performance screening young climbers – are you doing enough?

I’ve been working with elite youth squads for nearly 10 years and as a physio/coach I am able to deal with problems and injuries as they arise. This might be in the form of direct advice or prescription of exercises but the most effective solution is always to ‘coach’ it out i.e. subtly adapt my approach to change the climbers behaviour and technique.
This approach was always supported by my experience of talking to parents and the kids themselves – too many physios giving different solutions and whilst it could be seen that this advice didn’t really conflict with previous advice (physios are good like that) the child did become confused. Also it ‘medicalised’ a sporting problem – which is not always a good thing (sometimes it is).
I started looking to other sports to see what happened here and made notes as I went along. THIS ARTICLE is a summary of my notes as a pseudo-literature review. I have tried to make it readable. Also available on my resources page.
Feedback, as always appreciated.

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