Touching the what?

For those that don’t know the story about 30 years ago a young chap called Joe broke his leg while coming down a mountain. His climbing buddy (Simon) heroically rescued him putting his own life in considerable danger. Things got so bad Simon had to cut the rope that joined them, plunging Joe to almost…

August’s recommendations

Always looking for things to improve my health, fitness and well-being. Thought I’d share my current favorites. Book – How not to Die by Michael Gregor. Brilliant read on the science of eating. Worth every penny. Podcast – Page 94. Strictly for the socialists but the current episode lifts the lid on the problems facing…

The good thing about being a physio

Is when you develop pain on a long ride you can say confidently what it is. However it doesn’t make you immune nor did it make the pain go away. Today I have enjoyed patella-femoral pain due to a tight quad on the left causing issues up long climbs. Also medial planter nerve compression due…

Injury of the week

This limped into my clinic yesterday. 60yr old male, sudden onset; breaking into a run – heard a pop. Immediate pain and swelling. It’s the right knee. Any guesses?

How to run an ultra marathon Part 4

Endurance. Now that you’ve increased your distance and that you’re confident your bones, joints and muscles will cope you need to test your legs, heart and lungs. Will they work at a good rate (40-60% VO2 max – or being out of breath but able to converse) for long enough. So run your max distance…

How to run an ultra marathon t’three

Get your distance up. You need to know how well your muscles, be bones, ligaments and especially tendons will cope with the milage. Muscles are pretty adaptable; they’ll complain and then ache for a few days but they’ll be ok. It’s the tendons; Achilles, hamstrings, patella tendons you need to worry about. Also by increasing…

Touching the void

Every now and then I get a fun job which reminds me that despite how busy I get as a physio I also love being a climbing instructor. This also helps motivate me; for one afternoon’s work I ran up and down the gorge 8 times, shunted up 60m ropes about 10 times and generally…

Everything in moderation?

I hear this a lot. It’s normally near the end of a conversation about diet. And then I start to disagree. If I think about it, it doesn’t work. I drink moderately but the head of the health services in UK advises NO alcohol is the only safe limit. I certainly don’t eat everything moderately…

What is success?

I’m having a very productive week here in Chamonix attending the 4th IRCRA conference and despite being beaten in my attempt to climb the Dent Du Geant I’ve really enjoyed learning so much about current climbing research. There’s so much going on. A great week. And I climbed Cosmiques Arete – always meant to

Do you crimp?

I’m attending the 4th IRCRA (international rock climbing research association) Congress here in Chamonix. Learning lots of things about all aspects of climbing; interesting ideas on setting up stances for example. Today is all about the body – my favorite day. This slide shows the forces put through the A2 & A4 pulleys during a…